As Edinburgh’s festival season approaches, residents and visitors alike become spoilt for choice as to how to spend their free time. While I often wish things were more spread out throughout the year, in truth, I’m a big fan. I love the buzz, the excitement and the chaos energy the festivals bring to an otherwise pretty chilled (some would say sedate) city.
Edinburgh Art Festival is an interesting beast, because it’s not quite as temporary as the Fringe, Book or International festivals. Rather, the art festival takes lots of different exhibitions which are already happening, and groups them under its banner, while adding special events, talks and tours. I guess the aim of this tactic is to raise the profile of the galleries and exhibition spaces across the city, allowing them both to compete with performance venues, and to take advantage of the vastly swelled number of tourists in town.
As an Edinburgh resident, the best thing about this is that many of the exhibitions aren’t just limited to the month of August. Some have already started, while others will be here until the autumn and beyond. So, whether you’re a festival hater, or just here in Auld Reekie for a few precious August days, here are my five top choices for Edinburgh Art Festival. Picking only five was difficult, there are lots more shows and events to see, so make sure you head to the EAF website for more info.
Leonor Antunes: the apparent length of a floor area
Fruitmarket – From now until 8 October
This is the best I’ve seen the Fruitmarket looking in ages, particularly the cavernous warehouse space (walk through the café to get there). Portuguese artist Leonor Antunes has used the dark room to miraculous effect, her woven/knotted/sculpted horse bridles, made from leather, wire and rattan, hanging like vines in clusters from the industrial beams above. As you walk among these tangled pieces, the different lines and fabrics intersect and enliven the empty space. It could be mistaken for some sort of S&M dungeon rather than a gallery, but that makes these weirdly haunted artworks all the more interesting. In the other rooms, the artist has created bespoke cork flooring where blocks of black and brown abstract shapes interlock and create artificial barriers: we must traverse these barriers in order to see this art more clearly. These floors, which smell comfortingly earthy and give the impression the artworks are floating, are based on designs for rugs by British designer Marian Pepler (1904-1997). Here, I’d recommend watching the short exhibition film in the upstairs gallery, which gives the work more context, and explains how Antunes looks to acknowledge overlooked (often female) artists and designers from history.

Keg De Souza: Shipping Roots
Inverleith House, Royal Botanic Garden – from now until 27 August
I stumbled upon this exhibition while showing my Australian aunt and uncle around Edinburgh’s Botanics – one of my favourite places to show off the views of the city. At the time, I didn’t really feel in the mood to look at art. I felt like a petulant child. I had already walked quite a bit, it was sunny, bright and breezy, the type of day where you don’t want to be inside and really don’t want to think too hard. My mood changed almost the moment I entered the first room, where the artist has placed branches of eucalyptus alongside floating silks which drape down dreamily. The air was beautifully scented and calming, conjuring the sweet lull of being in a Muji shop with several of their diffusers blasting at once. Yet despite the dreamy feel, the exhibition grapples with problematic histories of Botanical Gardens, through examining certain plant species that were transported across the British Empire. Upstairs, beautiful, ancient prickly pear plants combined with hanging artworks take on a sculptural quality. De Souza has managed to create an exhibition which examines the legacies of colonialism in a beguiling, almost-too-beautiful way. Very clever.

Grayson Perry: Smash Hits
Royal Scottish Academy – from now until 12 November (ticketed)
OK so this exhibition got panned in the Guardian (2 stars from JJ!?) but I loved it. I am in the Grayson cult and I pretty much love everything he has done, from TV shows to his Reith Lectures to his actual artwork. The Royal Scottish Academy’s massive walls are the perfect setting for the huge tapestries that adorn them. Whether you like art on a grand scale, or prefer to getting up nice and close to examine the details, then this is for you. If you like bright colours, this is for you. If you like shortbread biscuit tins decorated with Grayson dressed as Queen Elizabeth II on holiday in Balmoral, then this is for you. I think Jonathan Jones is right to question the relevance of placing Grayson’s obsession with Englishness in the Royal Scottish Academy, but maybe he’s forgetting how many English people live in Edinburgh or will be visiting Edinburgh this August. I can confirm that the shortbread is also delicious.

Markéta Luskačová
Stills Centre for Photography – from 12 August until 7 October
Although I’m not familiar with Markéta Luskačová’s work, I know it will be captivating. Encounters Art began life as an exploration of the magic of everyday ‘encounters’ with art, from graffiti to pleasing patterns in brickwork, so street photography has always had a place in my heart. The exhibition focuses on Luskačová’s photographs of children, and I’m interested in how she plays with the nostalgia that is inherent to photojournalism, and how this contrasts with our current usage of photography, where memories are instantly captured and then lost in the internet’s ether. Stills is consistently one of the best (and perhaps a little underrated) places to see art in Edinburgh. I trust their curating and expect this will be a fascinating show.

Alberta Whittle: create dangerously
National Galleries of Scotland: Modern One – from now until 7 January 2024
I’ve been a fan of Alberta Whittle since I reviewed her film business as usual: hostile environment that was part of Glasgow International’s online edition in 2020. This exhibition is the largest showing of her work to date, and there is a LOT to see here, including sculpture, tapestry, film, photography and installations, all exploring the idea that compassion and collective care can be a powerful means of resisting racism. The major piece in the exhibition is Lagareh – The Last Born, a 43-minute video installation which Whittle presented at the Venice Biennale in 2022. Unfortunately I didn’t have the chance to see the film all the way through (I will be going back) but was deeply moved by the portion I saw, where musician Kumba Kuyateh walks around a sparse wooden courtroom, slamming the stands, the lecterns, the apparatus of ‘justice’ with her fists, whilst singing a lamentation for Sheyku Bayoh, who died in police custody in Scotland in 2015. A personal highlight for me was the final installation, portal for breathing love into the Elders or an Adoration for kith-folk who we long for (2021) which brings together special, significant objects – fabrics, shells, plants – to creates a shrine to lost loved ones, completing what is a deeply moving, and in some parts shocking exhibition with an act of contemplation, showing how anger and grief live alongside one another.

Follow me on Instagram for more updates on art to see in Edinburgh this summer, and let me know what you’re most looking forward to seeing, I would love to hear from you!










































