Goodwood Art Foundation

The corner of West Sussex where my Dad lives, you are never far from a large country estate. Brown National Trust signs proliferate (Petworth; Uppark), and there are also estates that are still going, that still belong to some of the country’s richest families. You can tell this even by the architecture. In the villages surrounding Midhurst, many of the houses windowframes are painted in a bright saffron yellow, the colour of corn-fed chicken’s egg yolks. To a casual passerby, this might just be a jolly colour scheme collectively chosen by the locals, but in reality they are a territorial marker, showing that they belong to the Cowdray Estate (a 16,000-acre estate owned by Michael Pearson, aka the 4th Viscount Cowdray). 

The Viscount’s neighbour is Charles Gordon-Lennox, 11th Duke of Richmond. His estate, Goodwood, is about 10 miles south of Cowdray. He is the owner of the the Goodwood Art Foundation, a beautiful new sculpture park and exhibition space tucked amongst the rolling hills of the South Downs. From 1992-2020, it was the site of the Cass Sculpture Foundation but it has been expanded and reopened. As it’s just a stone’s throw away from my Dad’s, I was keen to get there. Especially when I found out their first headline exhibition is by Rachel Whiteread, an artist I researched as part of my Master’s in 2019.

The Restaurant at Goodwood Art Foundation with my Dad for scale

My first impression is one of taste: everything looks new and clean and swanky. Like it cost a lot. There’s a striking black and silver and asymmetrical building, and for a second, it feels like I’m back at the Louisiana museum on the far reaches of Copenhagen. But the landscape around here is undeniably English: the rolling hills, the ancient woodlands, and the mighty oak trees dotted in the fields. It’s a fascinating, jarring almost, setting for Rachel Whiteread’s work, which has always struck me as unfailingly urban. Her use of concrete is what defines much of her sculpture, with her most famous work, House (1993) filling up an east London townhouse from the inside out, then its cast left behind, standing as a lonely monument to demolition and faded domesticity. 

This season, Whiteread is the main focus of the larger gallery, one of two indoor art spaces at the Foundation. In the centre, the space is dominated by her work Doppelgänger (2020-21), a bright white ghost of a tumbledown corrugated iron shack, trees poking through the building’s seams. However, I was drawn to the photos on display, the first substantial showing of her photography. Her photos, like most people’s, were largely taken on her phone and capture landscapes, interesting shapes, everyday encounters with the traces of human presence, or as she says “eccentric features” that interest her. Whiteread views photographs as a form of notetaking, a sentiment which strongly chimes with me. Part of the reason for starting this blog came from a desire to capture those artistic ‘encounters’ that one meets within the city. So in Whiteread’s photos, we see fragments of colour against brown and grey of signs and posts, and the pleasing, satisfying textures of tiles, pictured side by side with dried, fragmented earth. The wall labels tells us the locations for these images: France, Rome, California, Essex, Tuscany.

Whiteread’s photographs
Whiteread’s photographs

Back outside, my Dad and I strolled around at an easy pace, enjoying the vistas through the woods and occasionally playing a game of “is it an artwork or is it a nicely arranged pile of wood?” The landscape gardener, Dan Pearson, clearly has a nuanced understanding of the playful boundary between them. I enjoyed the exploration of materials and fragility in Veronica Ryan’s Magnolia Blossoms (2025) a circle of fallen petals and buds made from bronze. Rose Wylie’s Pale-Pink Pineapple/Bomb (2025) isn’t my type of thing, but looked pleasantly incongruous in the landscape. Unfortunately, Hélcio Oiticica’s Magic Square #3 (1978) was not yet open for exploration, but I’ll go back.

Rose Wylie’s Pale-Pink Pineapple/Bomb (2025)

When we came upon Susan Phillipsz’ work As Many As Will (2015), it took a few moments of listening to the silence (actually the birds and the wind in the trees) before being startled by a lone signing voice, soon joined by others. This beautiful ‘in the round’ song, which Phillipsz sings herself with her soft Scottish accent, about refuge and Robin Hood moved me, but I couldn’t quite say why I had tears in my eyes and a strange catch in my throat. Something about feeling lucky and sad at the same time. How did I get to stroll through this beautiful landscape, stumbling upon art, when there is so much horror unfolding before our very eyes on our phones from morning ‘til night. Why is the world like this.

Whiteread’s unmistakable footprints appear again across the wildflower meadow, her signature concrete casting process back with Down and Up (2024-25), a staircase flung in the wide field like a strange fragment of a disappeared home. The free guide booklet contained an interview with Whiteread, where she refers to this sculptural staircase as  “universal memory of a commonplace architectural form”. I cannot think of her work without feeling it is haunted, these casts of buildings capture a ghostly suggestion of a structure that once was and now isn’t there any more. It is no wonder her art is associated with memorials: her Memorial to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were Murdered in the Shoah in the Judenplatz in Vienna is an unforgettable work. Seeing this staircase then, one cannot help but think of ruined buildings of Gaza, of destruction and war. It is inescapable.

Whiteread, Down and Up (2024-25)

The smaller gallery space housed Amie Siegel’s Bloodlines (2022). I don’t normally engage video art for long, I’m naturally impatient. Here though, in the shade and darkness I was completely captivated by the luxurious interiors of Seigel’s film. Unnarrated, the camera drifts eerily along magnificently decorated hallways and into rooms with ticking clocks, marble pillars and strange taxidermied animal collections. We see an ‘insider’ view of huge stately homes, that are choc-full of artworks. It felt very apt that Bloodlines, which traces the movement of artworks by George Stubbs between private collections and public museums but really explores wealth, history, the legacies of ownership, class, and the strange power dynamics of who owns art and who can look at, and on whose terms that is, felt an important nod to where we were: the art collection of an actual Duke, (because yes, they’re still around), in the middle of a field in England.

Film still from Amie Siegel’s Bloodlines (2022)

Crying in the Gallery

This is perhaps the first of a series I’m going to call ‘crying in the gallery’. Art can move us in unexpected ways and catch us off guard at times. That’s what happened during a visit earlier this year to the Royal Scottish Academy for a look at their exhibition Dürer to Van Dyck: Drawings from Chatsworth House. It was a small exhibition featuring exceptionally high quality drawings and watercolours from the Devonshire Collection (amassed by the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Dukes of Devonshire) and usually housed at Chatsworth in Derbyshire. 

As the title suggests, the exhibition featured some of the most famous-of-famous artists: Albrecht Dürer, Hans Holbein the Younger, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Rembrandt. The darkness of the room enhanced the magical effect of these delicate drawings, faces peer out from history and the darkness; animals and landscapes emerge with exquisite fragility.

Head and Forequarters of a gray horse by Anthony van Dyck

So much of what we see in drawings feels like a glance into the ‘behind the scenes’ of an artist’s process, whether that is preparatory sketches, studies for prints or tapestries, observations of landscapes, or designs for much larger works. One piece that caught my eye was a beautiful sketch of a horse by Van Dyck. Its head is lowered, its gaze fixed. It appears to be waiting patiently – you can see the fine detail from pulsating veins to strands of its mane. This was a preparatory sketch for the 1618 painting, St Martin Dividing his Cloak, an altarpiece in the Sint-Martinuskerk in Zaventem, Belgium. If you look at them side-by-side, I much prefer the drawing to the fully fledged painting. It is the most immediate art form – far more intimate than a grand oil painting in a heavy gold frame.

Saint Martin Dividing His Cloak, Anthony Van Dyck, 1618

The horse wasn’t what brought tears to my eyes, though. It was this one: ‘A Dying Tree, its Trunk Covered with Brambles, Beside a Fence’, about 1618, by Peter Paul Rubens (though experts are divided as to whether it’s by Rubens or Van Dyck).

‘Dying Tree, its Trunk Covered with Brambles, Beside a Fence’, about 1618, by Peter Paul Rubens

The label explained that the drawing is made with a combination of materials: pen and brown ink; red and black chalk, with greenish-brown watercolour, touches of opaque watercolour and possibly oil paint. As with the horse, the drawing is a study for a larger painting. Rubens’ Landscape with a Boar Hunt, now held at the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden.

We see a tall, curving trunk of a tree emerging from a dark undergrowth. Its branches are bare, but all around it is covered in leaves, crawling up its spine, embracing it, possibly cradling its inevitable fall. The leaves fade in and out of focus, like a magnifying glass is passing over the surface of the drawing while we look at it. The undergrowth is dense and dark with cross-hatching. It reminded me of an oak tree I developed a fascination with when my mum was dying. While she was in hospital, I’d pass the time at walking near her home, watching the landscape blossom from late spring to the height of summer, this explosion of nature and life totally at odds with the personal turmoil we were experiencing. 

This special tree is a patchwork of life and death. Some branches are spindly and bare, but other parts of it are thriving, covered with masses of green, bright growth, healthy leaves shining in the sun. To this day, whenever I visit my dad, I check on the tree to see how it’s doing. It’s just a short walk from where my mum is buried.

The tree in May 2022

There is something comforting in being reminded that death and life coexist. Nature knows this: the ivy thrives on the branches of a dying tree, and dead wood itself is a great source of shelter for insects and is home to fungi. When a tree dies, the light that reaches down can cause huge spurts of growth on the forest floor beneath. Back in the early 1600s, Rubens took the time to observe this, laboured over it with intense detail to create what is now considered to be one of the greatest nature studies produced in Europe in the 17th century. Little did he know that 400 years later, his study of life and death would bring tears to the eyes of an observer, because it reminded her of someone, something, a time and a place, lodged in memory.

That, ultimately, is the beauty and meaning of art for me: every time you look at a picture, you bring the whole weight of associations of images, places and people you have encountered before along with you. It will mean something unique and distinct to everyone. Sometimes, it might just be a picture. Other times, it might be a whole lot more.

The tree in September 2024 – it’s still living and dying

Mark your diaries! My must-see art for this year.

Steadily, tentatively, light is creeping back. The snowdrops have been sighted at the Botanic Gardens. There are still a few dregs of colour in the sky after the work day is done. Slowly we begin to emerge from hibernation, and what better way to celebrate this than by letting you know about some of the art exhibitions I’m most looking forward to this year.

Over my years of writing about art (Encounters Art is four years old in May this year!) there are a few things I’ve learnt. Unfortunately, you have to be organised. If you see something you like the look of, make sure you go to see it close to the start of the run. Otherwise, you just won’t get round to it. I have learnt this the hard way far too many times. Even with shows that will be on until 2026, it’s better to strike while the iron’s hot. So, let’s all get our diaries out and get these dates marked! Exhibitions are listed in chronological order.

Snowdrops sighted at the Botanics

The Scottish Colourists – Radical Perspectives at Dovecote Studios

Friday 7 February to Saturday 28 June

This looks like a fascinating show, hosted by Dovecot Studios – one of the most underrated places to see art in Edinburgh. The Scottish colourists were a group of four painters around in the early 20th century, who were influenced by the time they spent in France. This exhibition shows their work alongside Matisse and Derain, as well as Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant from the Bloomsbury Group. I LOVE this era of painting but don’t know much about this much beloved group of Scottish artists, so I’m looking forward to learning more. General Admission tickets are £12.

Luxembourg Gardens by SJ Peploe, c.1910 from the Flemming Collection

Jerwood Survey III at Collective

Friday 28 February to Sunday 4 May (Wednesdays – Sundays)

Collective, perched high atop Calton Hill, is an art space I feel I have neglected. I think I’ve seen a few shows there that didn’t quite land with me, which have made me lazy about climbing that hill. However, I intend to rectify that this year. Their first show of the year is the Jerwood Survey III. This initiative brings together ten emerging, early career artists who have been recognised and selected by leading artists for the outstanding work they are creating. Collective is the final stop on this exhibition’s tour, it has been to London, Cardiff and Sheffield. I love the concept of a touring exhibition – several feature in this list. Themes addressed by the artists include colonialism, climate change, healing, gender, sexuality, folklore and spirituality. So this is one to visit when you’ve got brain space and energy for art that can challenge, provoke and make you encounter the big topics. Entry is free, though a £5 donation is suggested. Please donate if you can afford to do so: these are trying times for the arts in Scotland and exhibitions are expensive to run. Collective is open Wednesday-Sunday.

Acts of Creation: On Art and Motherhood at Dundee Contemporary Arts

Saturday 19 April to Sunday 13 July

I love Dundee Contemporary Arts. If I lived in Dundee I’d be there all the time at their cinema which seems to only show interesting movies (I just checked, it’s also showing Mad About the Boy, which is fine with me). The Acts of Creation exhibition has been on my radar for a while. Hettie Judah, the curator, has done an amazing job of advocating for artists who are also mothers. She uses her Instagram as a platform for artist-mothers work and I love the idea of an exhibition that interrogates motherhood in all its complexity. Featuring some pretty big hitters of the art world, including Tracey Emin, Paula Rego and Chantelle Joffe, I’m so glad this is finally coming to Scotland – it began at the Hayward Gallery in London and has also been at the Millenium Gallery in Sheffield. I think tickets are free, can’t see anything to suggest otherwise. The gallery is open Wednesday-Sunday.

Sleeper by Paula Rego, 1994
Photographed at the ‘Obedience and Defiance’ show at Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, 2019

The murals at Mansfield Traquair

This is another one on the “I’ve been meaning to go for years but never got round to it” list. The Mansfield Traquair Centre is referred to by some as ‘Edinburgh’s Sistine Chapel’, which is a pretty big claim. Originally it was a Catholic Apolostolic Church, completed in 1895. The building’s most famous feature is its murals, painted by the renowned Phoebe Anna Traquair in the 1890s. The space is currently used for weddings, parties and corporate events, but they host open days and tours usually on the second Sunday afternoon the month, with more dates added during the Fringe. Free – more info on tours and dates here.

Linder: Danger Came Smiling at Inverleith House, Royal Botanical Gardens

Friday 23 May to Sunday 19 October

I was really excited hearing about this show and was trying to figure out when I could get down to London to see it at the Hayward Gallery when, lo and behold I find out it’s coming to Inverleith House! This will be a remarkable show – a retrospective of feminist icon Linder’s work in the year she turns 70. This weekend in the Guardian there was a long and fascinating interview on how she uses trauma and porn to inform her art, and I definitely think she’s going to ruffle a few feathers of people visiting the Botanics! She’s a very cool punk artist who does incredible collages. This one, of a woman seemingly in a picture of domestic bliss, is gouging her eyes out with a fork (I saw it at the Women in Revolt exhibition at the National Galleries of Scotland earlier this year). I can’t wait to see more of her provocative and radical work. Not sure on ticket details and pricing yet – watch this space.

Untitled collage by Linder (1976)

Mike Nelson at Fruitmarket

Friday 20 June to Sunday 28 September

I first came across Mike Nelson’s work at a huge exhibition at Tate Britain in 2019, which art critic Laura Cumming referred to as his ‘all time masterpiece’. I’ll be interested to see where he goes from there. His work features huge installations, often formed from scrap metal and defunct machinery. For this exhibition, Nelson will be using Fruitmarket’s bare Warehouse as a studio in the weeks preceding the exhibition, and I think his work will marry well in that space, where the art has to take on an industrial scale. Fruitmarket exhibitions are free.

A detail from Mike Nelson’s The Asset Strippers at Tate Britain, 2019

Andy Goldsworthy – Fifty Years at the Royal Scottish Academy

Saturday 26 July – Sunday 2 November

You have probably seen an Andy Goldsworthy artist without having even realised it. Last week at the Botanic Gardens a slate structure that looked like an old cairn caught my eye, and it turned out to be a large sculpture by him. His work, Coppice Wood, at Jupiter Artland is probably my favourite there. He uses nature and the natural elements of our world to craft artwork that is simultaneously vast in scale and understated in tone. The exhibition brings together more than 200 works including photographs, sculptures and expansive new installations built in-situ and specially created for this exhibition. Unlike some of the other shows on this list, it’s only being exhibited in Edinburgh – part of Edinburgh Art Festival – but one to visit before the Fringe crowds arrive, if you can. Full price tickets are £19. Read to the end for my tip on getting cheaper tickets.

Stone Coppice by Andy Goldsworthy (2009) at Jupiter Artland

Jupiter Rising x EAF

Date TBC

Those of you who’ve been reading the blog for a while know I’m a big fan of both Jupiter Artland and Edinburgh Art Festival. But I’ve never made it to their big collaborative summer party/festival, Jupiter Rising x EAF. This time, I’m determined to be there. It brings together experimental music, performance, poetry and art. Essentially it sounds like a big fun queer art party. Does anyone want to give me a lift?

Pittenweem Arts Festival

Saturday 2 to Saturday 9 August

This is an event I’ve been meaning to go to for a while, and it’s in one of my favourite corners of Scotland. Pittenweem is one of the prettiest coastal villages in the East Neuk of Fife. The annual art festival brings the joy of art to everyday spaces – homes, garages and sheds. I think it sounds like a lovely way to spend a day, wandering along the Fife Coastal Path (hot chocolate at the Cocoa Tree Cafe, lunch at the East Pier Smokehouse) then browsing some art, and chatting to artists, maybe purchasing something new for your home too.

Pittenweem looking pretty

Art Walk Porty

6 to 14 September 2025

OK I am biased with this one as I’m on the Board of the organisation, but Art Walk Porty is always one of the highlights of the art calendar in my year. It brings together artist residencies, with events, workshops, and the art houses, where people open up their homes to exhibit their art. While the programme is yet to be announced, this year marks 10 years since the organisation began, so it’s bound to be a packed and celebratory week. I am always in awe of how much the Art Walk team manage to deliver, and they recently managed to secure multi-year funding from Creative Scotland for the first time. Watch this space as more details of the programme emerge.

Rolled over from last year, I still want to visit Mount Stewart House in Bute and the Italian Chapel, Orkney. You can read more about my 2024 bucket list in last year’s blog post here.

Finally, I feel the list wouldn’t be quite complete without a nod to two exhibitions I am intending to see in London. Firstly, Kiefer/Van Gogh at the Royal Academy London (28 June – 26 October) which is sure to be astounding. My Masters’ Dissertation was on Anselm Kiefer and his retrospective at the Royal Academy in 2014 was one of my favourite shows I’ve ever seen. At Tate Modern, I’m hoping to see Do Ho Suh: Walk the House (1 May – 19 October). This is after encountering his work for the first time at the one of my favourite exhibitions of the 2024 at the National Galleries of Scotland. I’m very keen to see more.

Do Ho Shu installation view at Tracing Time exhibition, National Galleries Scotland

Top tip: if you’re seeing lots of art this year, I’d recommend looking into buying a National Art Pass from the Art Fund, which currently costs £62.35 by direct debit. Almost every charging exhibition gives you a discount if you have the card, you get a cute quarterly magazine with interesting article and art news, and most importantly, you’re supporting the arts.

I’d love to hear what you’re looking forward to, and perhaps any major moments I’ve missed from my list! Feel free to get in touch using the comments, and don’t forget to follow me on Instagram to see if I make good on all these art ambitions for 2025.

On the roof of National Museum of Scotland

Looking back on Louisiana

We visited on a cold, bright day fringed with snow. Humlebæk is an unassuming town a short train ride away from Copenhagen, and I imagine it’s mainly home to commuters. Yet it also boasts one of the great collections of art from 1945 onwards, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

Louisiana is one of those museums that just feels well done. It’s clearly immensely popular. It’s classy, sophisticated, cared for, and it feels rich. Turns out it is a private, state-recognised museum, which means around 15% of its revenue is from the Danish public sector, with the rest made up by commercial activity and sponsorships. Louisiana was founded in 1958 by Knud W. Jensen, who wanted more Danes to access contemporary art. Think the Peggy Guggenheim Collection meets Jupiter Artland. Like a smaller, more accessible Tate Modern.

The place buzzed with dynamic energy. Perhaps this is because, although the collection is large, you will not find a decade by decade chronological survey of art from 1945 to 2025 here. The display policy is centred around a programme of rotating, thematic exhibitions, interspersed with a few of their collection highlights which are on near-permanent display. For our visit, the main exhibition was OCEAN (October 2024 – April 2025), exploring humanity’s complex and fraught relationship with the sea.

Peder Balke’s tiny seascapes

It’s apt, because Louisiana sits right on the edge of the Øresund, the strait between Denmark and Sweden which is one of the busiest waterways in the world. On 2nd January however, it was an empty deep blue canvas. Some of the works that resonated the most with me in the exhibition weren’t contemporary at all: there were beautiful antique sculptures which showed the sea as both protector and destroyer. The parts that had been submerged in the sand were uncannily smooth, while the exposed sections had been eaten away by sea creatures, and eroded by the water itself. 

Ancient sculpture found in the Aegean Sea in 1900

Close by, El Anatsui’s Akua’s Surviving Children (1996) was formed of pieces of driftwood and iron found 20 kms north of Louisiana when the artist was visiting Denmark. It represents a group of enslaved people returning from the sea, and was initially assembled at a local arms factory that had provided weapons utilised in the Danish slave trade in Ghana, in the 18th and 19th centuries. Positioned directly behind it was Kara Walker’s The Rift of the Medusa (2017), (after Géricault’s The Raft of the Medusa, 1819), bringing the violence of both the sea and of humans into sharp relief.

El Anatsui meets Kara Walker

There were paintings, Japanese woodcuts, video art, sculptures. Tiny paintings of the wild sea by Peder Balke met large scale canvases by Anselm Kiefer. I was briefly transported back to Britain via Susan Hiller’s Rough Seas series, where the artist has collected hundreds of vintage postcards of the sea crashing into picturesque towns around Britain’s shorelines: each one depicting the sublime power of the sea in miniature. Sensitive, thoughtful curation meant this vast range of works were able to function in dialogue, opening up new ways of thinking, seeing and even feeling about the sea in all its complexity.

Susan Hiller’s series of Rough Seas postcards

The quality of the Louisiana collection is extraordinary. If you pick any famous artist you can think of from the past 80 years, they probably own one of their works. When we arrived, we made a beeline for one of the few year-round installation artworks, Gleaming Lights of the Souls (2008) by Yayoi Kusama. Having failed miserably to get to the Yayoi Kusama Infinity Rooms that were installed for three years at Tate Modern, it was amazing to have only a short queue to see this mesmerising work. Surrounded by mirrors and water, it is easy to see why Kusama’s work is so popular in this era which prizes immersive experiences more highly than any other mode of interaction with art. Other highlights elsewhere in the museum included seeing Louise Bourgeois’ gigantic Spider Couple (2003) installed by a giant floor-to-ceiling window, their spindly legs echoing the tangle of branches outside.

Spider Couple (2003) by Louise Bourgeois

What changes a ‘good’ museum or gallery to a ‘great’ one? Much though I love Scotland’s museums, it is clear to me that even though Denmark and Scotland have a similar size of population, I can’t currently see a way that a museum of Louisiana’s scope, scale or calibre could ever be supported here. It has entire wing for kids, a sculpture park, runs an annual literature festival, hosts its own broadcasting channel which creates new educational content every week, and is open as a music and events space every Thursday and Friday until 10pm. This is one of my chief frustrations with galleries in the UK. You have to be freelance, retired or a student to go there during the week – places open at 10am and close at 5pm so if you’re working, sorry, you have to go at the weekend with everyone else. This seems to be such a missed opportunity to me.

Starting the year visiting such a wonderful museum has given me renewed ambition to try and see more art this year and write about it. For my next post, I’m planning on focusing on 2025’s must-see events and exhibitions much closer to home. Watch this space!

Me with Henry Moore’s Two Piece Reclining Figure No. 5 (1963-64)

My top five art encounters of the year

As the end of the year approaches, it’s become something of a tradition for me to scroll back through the pictures on my phone and reflect on my favourite encounters with art over the course of the year.

On the surface of it, it feels like I haven’t seen all that much this year. I’ve prioritised other life factors like hanging out with friends and traveling over engaging with art or blogging. But looking back, it’s been a rich year for discovery, including some memorable exhibitions and some new places visited. In the end, narrowing down this list became harder that I thought it would.

My top five in reverse order are…

5) ‘Tracing Time’ by Do Ho Suh

This unassuming exhibition at the Modern Galleries in Edinburgh has stayed with me since I visited the show in April. There was just so much to discover and be enchanted by. Do Ho Suh examines feeling and conceptual pull of ‘home’, exploring the different homes he has lived in over the years. Through his delicate and immensely varied work, he captures some of the magic that resonates within us and root us different places from our past.

‘Blueprint’ by Do Ho Suh, 2014

Highlights for me included the beautifully fine drawings incorporating messy masses of thread spooling out from them, as well as the stunning 3D installation which stitched together different entrance halls from two different buildings Do Ho Suh has lived in, in London and Berlin. I was also mesmerised by a short video about Fallen Star, his ambitious and deeply imaginative work inspired by the house swept away by the tornado in The Wizard of Oz, which is installed at the top of a University of California campus building. The whimsey of the idea, combined with the rigorous architectural and construction know-how to turn a sketch into a reality is inspiring and surprising in equal measure. Art can be utterly bizarre sometimes, but it can open our eyes to new possibilities in that way.

Sketch for ‘Fallen Star: Winds of Destiny’ by Do Ho Suh

Fans of the show, or those who missed it in Edinburgh have the chance to see a retrospective exhibition which is coming to Tate in 2025. That one will certainly be on my list to visit.

4) A double bill of El Anatsui

For as long as I can remember, I have enjoyed art that functions on a big scale. I vividly remember when I was little, staring up at Stubbs’s Whistlejacket in the National Gallery, being bowled over by the sheer size of the thing. Then, in my early twenties when I came to love contemporary art, it was the gigantic canvases by Anselm Kiefer that caught my imagination. So, it only makes sense that I’m drawn to large-scale installations like the work of Ghanaian artist El Anatsui. This year, I had the opportunity to see a huge exhibition of his, Behind the Red Moon, in the Turbine Hall at Tate Modern, followed by an extensive exhibition of his work (including some on a much smaller scale) at the Talbot Rice Gallery in Edinburgh.

‘Behind the Red Moon, Act III: The Wall’ by El Anatsui (2023)

What’s special about El Anatsui’s work is that it seems simple but is in fact telling a much more complex story. The metal he repurposes for his giant mosaics speak of the complex material histories and imprints that objects carry with them. There are tales of colonialism, of industry, of waste and of rebirth in every piece which contributes to a greater whole. Looking at this art makes you feel small, humbled. You can decide to step back, to view it from afar as chunks of colour and form and shape, and ponder the global systems that brought these materials together, or you can zoom in, get closer and see the intrigue in each piece, and consider the many hands who have contributed to make it a thing of beauty.

‘Scottish Mission Book Depot Keta’ by El Anatsui (2024)

3) Discovering new perspectives at the Young V&A

There is nothing quite like childlike wonder. I wish I could bottle it and save it for days when I feel jaded. I had been keen to visit the Young V&A ever since its reopening in summer 2023 after a £13m revamp. In April, I got to go along with my brother and my two nephews (aged 6 and 1). I love what they’ve done with the place to make it fun, interactive and genuinely entertaining for kids and grown-ups alike – though I would recommend going with some kids to see their enjoyment unfold with you. There are different zones for different age groups, called Play, Design and Imagine, all exploring the different ways children have played over the centuries, bringing together objects dating from 2300BC onwards.

‘Place (Village)’, by Rachel Whiteread (2023)

The standout piece for me was Rachel Whiteread’s installation Place (Village), made from the extensive collection of doll’s houses the artist collected between 2007-23, and formed into a village on a hill. As someone who played with a doll’s house as a kid, but who also loves to peek into homes at night, this beautiful installation, the lights shining out from these homes in the darkness, made me feel nostalgic and curious all at once. I guess that’s the point of places like the Young V&A, they remind us all we were once children: art doesn’t always have to be serious and we can still experience life with a healthy dose of childlike wonder and a sense of play.

Beautiful floor, beautiful baby!

2) Moved to tears by ‘Ricochets’ at the Barbican

The power of play is also explored in what was probably my favourite exhibition of the year, Ricochets by Francis Alÿs at the Barbican. I wrote a long blog post about how the exhibition was one of hope and sadness, joy and melancholy. The heart of the exhibition revolved around his Children’s Games series, which looks at how resourceful and innovative and can create games even in the toughest of circumstances, including war zones, deserts and crowded cityscapes. These can all be explored online and I would recommend diving into the collection: you will be moved and uplifted in equal measure.

‘Children’s Game #40: Chivichanas’ in La Habana, Cuba, by Francis Alÿs (2023)

1) Exploring Little Sparta’s treasures

At the start of this year, I wrote a post about my Art in Scotland Bucket List for 2024. I really didn’t get very far with this list (the best laid plans of mice and men…) However I did, at last, make it to Little Sparta, the garden of poet Ian Hamilton Findlay and his wife Sue, which is nestled in the Pentlands. It’s not far as the crow flies from Edinburgh, but feels worlds away, like an enchanted garden with fragments of poetry half buried in the undergrowth. The paths wind their ways through woods and little pools, there are half-hidden sculptures and moss-covered pillars and sundials. The artworks explore themes ranging from classical antiquity to the sea and fishing fleets. I didn’t understand many of the references, but in this way the garden was like a poem in itself. I don’t always understand poetry, but I like how it makes me feel.

Little Sparta – nestled in the Pentlands

The garden is open June-September each year, respecting the late poet’s wishes that the garden should be seen while the trees and plants are in full leaf. You can find out more about visiting here.

So there we have it, my top five encounters with art for 2024. I’d love to hear what your favourite art or cultural experiences have been this year. Feel free to leave a comment below!

Francis Alÿs: Ricochets

Some exhibitions have an unofficial soundtrack in my mind. Francis Alÿs’ Ricochets at the Barbican, which closed a couple of weeks ago, has had Whitney Houston’s The Greatest Love of All bouncing around in my head. The song starts with a gentle falling scale on the synth, and then Whitney comes in with the words: “I believe that children are our future/ teach them well and let them lead the way… let the children’s laughter remind us how we used to be.”

I’m a woman and I’m 32. That means that I am almost daily drawn into discussions of children. People ask me why I don’t have them, or if I’m wanting to have them. I’m an auntie and a guideparent. Some of my closest friends have babies, toddlers, kids in primary school. Some are wanting babies and it isn’t happening for them at the moment, some have had miscarriages and lost unborn children. I kind of knew the phase would come, when this would be the main topic of conversation dominating my life, but I had never expected an art exhibition to bring me back to it once again.

I’m with Whitney, I do believe children are our future. I think that artist Francis Alÿs does too, which is why he has spent years and travelled the globe collecting and documenting children’s games, which have been compiled together in beautiful, moving, sensory-overload-inducing multi-screen installations for his exhibition at the Barbican. The photos I took weren’t great, but the most wonderful thing about the project is that all of the Children’s Games videos are available online. You can explore the whole roster here and I’ve linked to specific ones in this post. 

I loved immersing myself in the worlds of these children, as they raced perilously down hilly streets on makeshift go-carts, as they played “Doctor Doctor!” in a yard by a cold-looking lake, as they raced snails on concrete or flew kites, skipped and skimmed stones. They enliven and brighten and spark joy wherever these games take place. Even in war zones, places decimated by wars now over, in refugee camps, their flame and zest for life burns so brightly. The sensitive curation at the Barbican brought this home: when children play in barren wastelands, they are no longer barren. It kindles a moment of hope.

Children’s Game #40: Chivichanas
La Habana, Cuba, 2023

In one of the exhibition’s longer videos, Parol, three Ukranian pre-teen boys are dressed in khaki and have wooden rifles, daubed in yellow and blue, slung over their shoulders. As the accompanying text explains (beautifully written for each game by Lorna Scott Fox), the boys “act out a grown-up duty: to uncover Russian spies… Cars are flagged down, IDs requested, trunks inspected. A password is demanded: “Palyanitsya”, the name of a traditional Ukrainian bread, and a word that Russians can’t pronounce right.” While the drivers of the passing cars appear to be cheered by their interactions with the children, it’s a perilously pertinent reminder that in a few years, these boys won’t be playing anymore. They’ll be on the front line. The existence of innocence always implies the loss of it.

Children’s Game #39: Parol
Kharkiv, Ukraine, 2023

In Haram Football, a group of lads between 8-15 years old gather in the streets of Mosul, Iraq, to play a game of collective imagining inspired by ‘the beautiful game’. Haram means ‘forbidden’, and football was forbidden under the rule of Islamic State. In the shadow of that regime, these boys perfected their craft of playing football without a ball, a collective pretending, all in agreement where the ball bounces, rolls and flies through the air. They shake hands and once the game starts, they jostle, dribble and leap for headers. All around them there’s rubble and collapsing buildings, the sun is setting. At one point, a tank drives straight over their makeshift goalpost, the boys just rebuild it and carry on. They disperse into the rubble and the shadows at the sound of an explosion or gunfire, but return at the end under the cover of darkness, to announce their names paired with their favourite clubs.

Children’s Game #19: Haram Football
Mosul, Iraq, 2017

It is utterly impossible not to think of Gaza. Back in May, Unicef estimated that 14,000 children had been killed in Gaza, with 17,000 of them unaccompanied or separated. Obviously that number just keeps on going up. While I’m sure that Alÿs will be visiting Gaza to document children creating games and hope from within whatever rubble is left, it is brutal and sickening to know that the children who do survive there will inherit decades of trauma, no matter how strong their resilience is, no matter how skilled they are at continuing to create joy even among the horror. I’m reminded of Greta Thunberg’s speech to the UN in 2019: “you come to us young people for hope? How dare you.” Yet we keep on turning back to children to kindle hope in the despair and darkness, to create something better than we have. They have so much resting on their small shoulders.

If hoping is a radical act, then having children surely must be the most radical act of hope. For me, in my head, I’m still the girl in the blue summer dress weaving through the cityscape and avoiding stepping on the lines, not one of the earthbound, onlooking adults. That is the magic of Alÿs’ project. It reminds us of the beauty and fragility of youth but also presents the language of play as the universal one, the one that connects us all, if we can only hear their laughter, to ‘remind us how we used to be’.

Children’s Game #23: Step on a Crack
Hong Kong, 2020

Five to see at Edinburgh Art Festival

It only feels like yesterday that I put together my five to see at 2023’s iteration of Edinburgh Art Festival. And we’re already one week in! The Festival officially finishes on August 25th, but don’t fret. Many of the shows carry on beyond festival season. 

EAF is 20 years old this year and there really is something for everyone. So if you’re searching for something different to do this weekend, with a bit of space from the Fringe crowds, here are my suggestions.

Ibrahim Mahama: Songs about Roses

Fruitmarket Gallery until 6th October

When talking to odious people about colonialism one of the things that might be brought up is how colonisers implemented infrastructure  – roads and railways – to the country that enabled it to advance. Songs about Roses explores the reality: these infrastructures were just a mechanism for extracting goods out of that land to make profit for the colonisers (pillaging). Mahama has collected huge pieces of a now defunct railway that was built by the British in 1923 to transport gold, minerals and cocoa around the area of Ghana that was then known as the Gold Coast. He has subverted and reframed these materials and given them new meaning in the process. In a video played on the ground floor, we see drone footage of these immense, rusted train carriages being transported across the Ghanaian landscape, like a funerary procession. Archival documents show the administrative nuts and bolts of empire building, that have now become the canvas for portraits and line drawings.

Detail of My Dear Comfort (2024) by Ibrahim Mahama

Delving further into archival material, Mahama has gathered group photographs of railway staff, which were taken pre-independence at railway workers’ retirement parties and company events. These are now rendered lifesize in charcoal and mounted on old railway tracks. The ghosts of colonial infrastructure have now returned to the Fruitmarket Gallery warehouse space: the place has become a monument to the railway workers, members of strong unions that played a key role in Ghanian independece and its immediate aftermath. It’s a dark room, thick with dust and the smells of industry. Perched as it is above Waverley station, I couldn’t help but think of Jamaican philosopher and academic Stuart Hall’s words on empires: ‘we are here because you were there’. These legacies are the ghosts of history and they have come home to roost.

Detail of Sekondi Locomotive Workshop (2024) by Ibrahim Mahama

Yet it’s not an exhibition that is about the story of historic exploitation alone. It’s also about Ghana’s future. The collaborative nature of Mahama’s practice is a source of hope: he sells his work in Europe and the USA and funds art and education institutions and projects in Ghana with the profits. Many of the works in the exhibition have links to audio of Muhama discussing the process of creating the works and exploring the ideas that inspired them – definitely worth a listen when you visit.

Renèe Helèna Browne: Sanctus!

City Art Centre until 25th August

I was lucky enough to meet artist Renèe Helèna Browne before seeing this piece, who explained how, though the surface story is about rally car driving, races and culture in Ireland, creating Sanctus! was really a mechanism to get to know their mother better. Browne discussed how, when thinking about their mother’s life, it was dominated by two systems: the catholic church which presided over her childhood, and the system of motherhood and raising children which followed. Both of these are explored in the work, but slowly, tentatively. The main piece is a film, lasting about 15 mins, obscured behind a red leather curtain (the red is a nod to the colour of Browne’s uncle’s rally car). As the viewer sits in the darkness we are confronted with the sounds of cars revving their engines. We see a distorted view of leaves and branches buffeted by the wind – reflections in the shiny paintwork of a vehicle.

What emerges is an intimate but simultaneously distant picture of the artist’s mother. At work at the farm. At home. Snippets of conversation where artist and mother discuss family deaths, the afterlife, faith and meaning. Their conversations seemingly evolve side by side but never quite join together. An intimate portrait of memory surfaces: the teenage child meticulously dyeing the mother’s hair and eyebrows. All the while the film explores the hyper-masculine space of rally driving. A little boy in full rally gear eagerly awaits the cars at the side of the road, poses for family photos with his father, uncles, cousins. Teenage boys drive cars in mesmeric circles like a dance, where they edge ever closer until you feel sure that one of them will collide (I think it’s called adjacent diffing). Meanwhile, we see the artist’s view from the sidelines. It feels as though this rally driving world is a source of nostalgia, a means of connection hovering close but always just out of reach. Fascinating and multilayered: I hope to go again to see the things I missed the first time. I also need to get some photos!

Home: Ukrainian Photography, UK Worlds 

Stills Centre for Photography until 5th October 

I am always drawn to the shows that Stills puts on and this one is no exception. There’s much talk about how now that everyone has access to good quality cameras via their smartphones, everyone’s a photographer. But when you go into a place like Stills you realise there is a still a difference. During the hype and excitement of the Fringe, it seems like the last thing you might want to do is look at photographs documenting the brutal realities of war. But the way this small but powerful show is put together makes it utterly necessary. We see a snapshots of clothes and possessions that refugees have left behind on a beach. There are insights too from Ukrainian life from the very end of the Soviet Era: in Passport (1995) photographer Alexander Chekmenev visiting the elderly at home to take passport photos and exposing the brutal reality of their living conditions. There’s an apartment block which looks like a doll’s house because the front of it has come clean off.

Damaged buildings in the aftermath of shelling, Podilskyi district, Kyiv (March 2022), Mykhaylo Palinchak

In the series that captured my attention the most, Ukrainian Roads (2022) by Andrii Ravhynskyi, we see roadsigns that have been obscured by bin liners, plastic bags, the mileage between towns and village names daubed with black paint: all attempts by local Ukrainian citizens to confuse and disorientate the Russian army whose GPS was patchy at the beginning of the war. Something so simple as a road sign, that looks so familiar, conflated with what has now become familiar because they are synonyms of war: Kharkiv, Kyiv, Simferopol. These images are deeply unsettling but demand to be seen.

Ukrainian Roads (2022) by Andrii Ravhynskyi

Platform24: Early Career Artist Award

City Art Centre until 25th August

I always enjoy seeing what the EAF Platform artists are up to. Now in its 10th year, the platform programme is a group show for emerging artists, and they have taken over a floor of the City Art Centre with this year’s presentation. The artists are Alaya Ang, Edward Gwyn Jones, Tamara MacArthur and Kialy Tihngang, who were asked to respond directly to the themes of the 2024 programme: intimacy, material memory, protest and persecution. My particular favourite was Gwyn Jones’ multi channel video piece Pillory, Pillocks!, where we see muck, slime, food residue and all manner of unknown substances flying at the face of a person looking back at us. He flinches, we flinch, and each time is saved by the presence of a clear screen. The artist says that it’s a response to historic shaming of people (think the stocks, rotten vegetables), humiliation and entertainment. It reminded me how as children we used to watch “get your own back” willing parents to be covered in slime. While you pity the man in the video, part of you wills for the protective screen to disappear.

I promise I will add some pictures to this section when I revisit!

El Anatsui: Scottish Mission Book Depot Keta 

Talbot Rice Gallery until 29th September

It feels so right that El Anatsui’s exhibition overlaps with Ibrahim Mahama’s at the Fruitmarket. Both artists are concerned with materiality, the legacies of history, colonialism, consumerism and they both work on a vast scale. I love El Anatsui’s work because it can be taken in on so many levels. You begin seeing the work from afar, dwarfed by it (recently, these huge scale works have adorned the side of the Royal Academy and the Turbine Hall in the Tate Modern). As you approach, it’s like zooming in to see the pixels in a photograph, each element emerges as unique and distinctive. These huge ‘tapestries’ may look like woven Kente cloth, but slowly reveal themselves as thousands of pieces of reclaimed aluminium bottle tops, from Ghana and Nigeria’s liquor bottling industries.

El Anatsui, details

This exhibition is the largest examination of El Anatsui’s work staged in the UK, and spans five decades of his career. The crowning glory is the beautiful and huge outdoor installation TSIATSIA – Searching for Connection (2013) which dominates the Old College courtyard, draped over the Georgian architecture like some shining shroud. Yet it’s also a treat to see smaller works which I wasn’t so familiar with: works on paper, and carved wooden reliefs. I would love to see these two giants of Ghanaian art in conversation. Or, at least responding to the other’s exhibitions. Come on Fruitmarket and Talbot Rice, make it happen?

TSIATSIA – Searching for Connection (2013) with Andrew for scale

There are still shows I haven’t managed to see yet, so what I’m looking forward to exploring next are:

I would love to hear what others have been enjoying at EAF this year. Let me know in the comments!

A love letter to Summerhall

Walking into Summerhall, you never really know if you’re in the right place. The old bronze door handle doesn’t completely turn. No matter how many times you’ve been, you have to have a millisecond of doubt (is it still open? have I come to the right entrance?) before you manage to get in. Once you’re inside, you can feel you’re somewhere that good things are happening, but it’s not always clear where, or how to get there. Most times I’ve been there, I’ve wandered in a circle, disorientated, and stumbled on something new, or I’ve followed others into the place I was looking for.

Summerhall is many things. It’s a rambling old veterinary school transformed into a multimedia arts venue which is home to over 100 businesses, including several artists’ studios. It’s also for sale. Like lots of Edinburgh residents, I’d experienced a wave of disappointment when I heard the place was on the market. But it wasn’t until last night, in the Dissection Room lit up by fairy lights, listening to Jalen Ngonda’s soaring falsetto that I realised how much I’d miss it.

Summerhall from the air

I stood there with lots of Six Music Dads soaking up the music and the atmosphere. No one had checked my ridiculously large and cumbersome cycling bag, no one had searched me. It has the lovely feeling of a slightly ramshackle, informal space (with the same sort of energy as Hidden Door festival) where no one asks what you’re doing. You could probably get lost wandering around in there for several hours and no one would bat an eyelid.

Even before I moved to Edinburgh six years ago, I’d seen theatre there during the Fringe. Summerhall is known for being home to some of the more experimental shows, and two stick out in my mind. First, Salt., a haunting one-woman show where Selina Thompson recounted her experience of retracing the route of the transatlantic slave trade. We were given science-lesson style safety goggles (the ones where the ends were always chewed on or slightly melted by bunsen burners at school) to protect us, while Thompson smashed out her anger and grief on a chunk of Himalayan pink rock salt on stage.

Salt. production photo by John Persson

More recently, with some trepidation given I was only recently bereaved, I saw The Last Show Before We Die. It was an apocalyptic cabaret of sorts, interweaving verbatim interviews and naked writhing on the floor, which questioned the meanings of endings, death, life and relationships. I cried (I always cry) and laughed and hoped no one would ask me to get involved in the audience participation bits. It’s that type of show that keeps the Fringe weird, and keeps people coming back to the Fringe.

Work has brought me to Summerhall too. When I worked at the Book Festival, EHFM, the online radio station based in Summerhall welcomed a group of young writers I worked with, encouraging them to share their beautiful, tender and teenage words with the world. I felt like a proud auntie. I’ve done an escape room at Summerhall too, as part of a teambuilding outing in my current role at Edinburgh College. As an old veterinary school, it has just the right amount of a creepy vibe to be perfect for an escape room. I am terrible at escape rooms, I contributed nothing but telling everyone else “oh well done!”, but we had fun.

After covid, Summerhall was one of the first places we could tentatively meet with friends again, exchanging pandemic stories over pints. Edinburgh is seriously lacking in beer gardens (there is quite an obvious a reason for that, as demonstrated this week) but the courtyard at Summerhall is one of the finest. Perhaps it seems shallow to mourn the lack of a drinking spot just as much as the gallery spaces, but the social spaces are where the good stuff happens. That’s where the connections are made, plans are hatched, friendships formed.

My pal Jenny’s summerhall studio.
Summerhall is a beautiful hub of creativity in so many ways.

We don’t know for sure what’s going to happen with the sale of the space yet. There may still be scope for an arts venue to continue there, but whether it’ll retain the rickety, casual beauty of the current Summerhall is another question entirely. So, while we still have it, I’m going to try and get there, get lost, and soak up the atmosphere for just a little longer. Experimental naked cabaret, anyone?

Some thoughts about arts funding

There have been some interesting developments lately in the arts funding sector in Scotland, as well as in the UK more widely, and so I thought I would try to put some of my thoughts down, to stop them swirling round in the echo chamber of my own brain. No one asked for my two cents, much of this is based on my personal experience, and I have more questions than answers really, but here they are.

To begin with, some context.

When I joined the National Gallery’s Development (aka fundraising) team in 2014, the Gallery was in the middle of a process of transitioning their security staff from an in-house service to an external security provider. After all, it’s cheaper to outsource this stuff than pay for your staff’s pensions. It was a horrible process, and involved many of the Gallery’s knowledgeable and dedicated security staff, who’d been working there for years, being transferred over to work for a big security company which covers far more than just museums and galleries. At the time I was 22, I’d just landed my first arts job and didn’t really understand the implications of what was happening – or maybe I didn’t want to understand. But it was part of a long process where, under successive Conservative governments, the arts have been pressured to function as businesses for their very survival. Private venue hire and increased reliance on philanthropic donations, both corporate and individual, has followed as part of this very conscious and politically motivated strategy.

My early career background as an arts fundraiser means my whole view of arts funding is rather institutional. For fundraisers, it’s a question of whether the institution can survive, that’s the bottom line. While there are due diligence processes on what is morally and ethically acceptable in terms of funding, this survival mentality shapes everything. At places like the National Gallery, the idea was always that we wanted to keep the nation’s beloved and beautiful art collection free and accessible to all, which was a huge personal motivator for me.

A decade later, I’m no longer an arts fundraiser but the conversation around it has evolved hugely. As the climate crisis unfolds at an alarming rate, most museums and galleries have now dropped oil companies as corporate sponsors (except for the Science Museum and the British Museum). Activists staged some incredibly striking protests that gained media attention and slowly filtered into the public consciousness.

British Museum BP protest in 2019

A significant part of this shift was the tireless campaigning led by artist Nan Goldin to get museums to stop accepting money from the Sackler foundation. The Sackler family has profited from the opioid crisis for decades, and were huge donors to museums and galleries across the globe. If you aren’t familiar with it, I’d recommend watching All the Beauty and the Bloodshed which documents the story. There is also Empire of Pain by Patrick Radden Keefe which investigates the subtle power of private money to influence public institutions. The fact that major museums dropped the Sackler foundation, and removed their name from their walls, shows that activism can work. It shows that there are some ethical lines that must not be crossed.

Shame on Sackler protest at the Met in 2018

The difficulty is everyone seems to have differing views on where that line should be drawn. Until recently, Edinburgh International Book Festival (also a former employer of mine) had defended its decision to accept funding from Baillie Gifford, an asset management firm with their headquarters in Edinburgh. Cut to a few weeks later and the Book Festival have, albeit reluctantly, cut their ties with Baillie Gifford following pressure from authors, artists and the public, with activist group Fossil Free Books at the helm.

It gives me hope that people care about, research and question how things are funded, rather than just blindly accepting and consuming them. When the Book Festival decided to drop Baillie Gifford, I will admit that it felt like a win. It was a huge win for activists who’d pointed out repeatedly that Baillie Gifford has holdings in fossil fuel companies and software companies used by the Israeli military, and is therefore complicit in the ongoing genocide of Palestinians.

However, now the dust has settled, a more cynical standpoint would say that this whole debacle has done significant damage to the arts but will have very little impact on the asset management firm and where their investments are. At the end of the day, they exist to make profit. They won’t be taking strategic advice from a Book Festival on divesting. They’ll continue to do what they do and they won’t be influenced by activists. That’s the cruel reality of capitalism. Incidentally, when Patrick Radden Keefe won the Baillie Gifford Prize (worth £50k) for Empire of Pain, he pointed out the irony. I’ll be very interested to see what this year’s winner of the prize will say.

Sometimes, I feel frustrated that the arts is subject to such intense scrutiny, where it seems like everything else has a free pass. Last year, the same weekend when Greta Thunberg pulled out of the Book Festival on the basis of Baillie Gifford’s investments in fossil fuels, I went to a mountain biking world championship event that was funded by Shell, their branding plastered all over the race. My mind reeled as I thought of how different standards were expected of art and sport.

The reason the arts is held to such high ethical and moral standards I guess is because they are generally believed to be a force for good. Most good art is political, it challenges us, makes us think in new ways, and see different perspectives. [I would hasten to add that the commercial art world is a whole other kettle of fish that I know very little about but seems deeply unethical and weird, with a HUGE carbon footprint and mainly the preserve of millionaires. They don’t seem to come under much critique but I guess that’s because that world is so far from most people’s reality.]

It feels sometimes like it’s impossible to exist in an ethical way within a system and ecology that is both exploitative and unsustainable. As one friend of mine, an arts fundraiser, said: “They’re still gonna do bad shit to the planet, let the arts have the ££££.” It’s a pragmatic approach, and it acknowledges that we’re just surviving on whatever we can get our hands on as the world burns. What does that mean for us as a society and for the things that we value?

At an Art Workers for Palestine Scotland event I attended in March, we had some interesting conversations. I was expressing my concern that without funding the arts won’t be able to deliver their programmes, exhibitions, events and keep on functioning to the same extent. The session facilitator replied that maybe that was just what had to happen, better that than accepting unethical funding. My (institutional) mind was blown, but maybe he was right. That means we’ll have to buckle our seatbelts and what’s coming will be a wholesale reimagining of what these arts organisations look like. Some critics of the Fossil Free Books campaign, such as a glib Marina Hyde on The Rest is Entertainment, have said that as a direct result of the withdrawal of Baillie Gifford funding means that outreach, work with schools and community programmes will get cut from festivals. I’d argue these are the bits these institutions should be rediverting their core funding to, they’re the parts that need to survive this turbulent future.

A word about arts workers

I wanted to take a moment to acknowledge the people who reside mainly behind the scenes in the arts and culture sector who work incredibly hard, who are under immense pressure to deliver. They have to juggle relationships with both artists and funders. They are predominatly women, bending over backwards to keep everyone happy and keep organisations afloat. Most of these people work for arts institutions out of love, and they put their blood, sweat and tears into making those places function (places that don’t always love them back). Unfortunately unless the government steps up their funding of arts organisations as places of intrinsic value, instead of treating them like businesses that have to prove their worth, it’s likely that the secure salaried posts at these organisations will shrink and everyone will be forced to work on insecure, temporary contracts, thus making the sector as a whole precarious. It’s already precarious: these workers know that there’s a queue of well qualified and dedicated people right outside the door ready to do their jobs if they don’t want to any more. Hence why everyone is, for the most part, overworked and underpaid.

So, it’s a mixed bag of feelings and I don’t know where we are going to end up. The whole issue is complex, divisive and quite depressing, but I still firmly believe that the arts, and people’s need to engage with art and culture, will endure. But these things are fragile and need to be nurtured through collective community endeavour. We will need all the imagination and creativity we can get. Maybe we can find the space to grow beyond the institutions we cling to so tightly, but I don’t know how.

I’ll keep following these stories with interest and hope to keep on having conversations about this. Some questions I will be asking myself which might be interesting to consider:

  • Can we be both principled and pragmatic in our approach to arts funding?
  • Do we side with hope or cynicism?
  • What does art/culture look like without institutions?
  • How can we try to live and create ethically within an unethical system?
  • How can we make access to art/the arts equitable for all?

What can we do?

  • Buy books from independent bookshops or use your local library
  • Support artists by buying their work and attending events
  • Keep talking to each other, follow accounts tackling these thorny issues
  • Vote

I am interested in continuing the conversation about this so if you would like to leave your comments then please do go ahead.

Art in Scotland: My 2024 Bucket List

Yesterday in Edinburgh, the sunset time was 5pm for the first time this year. This is cause to celebrate! Not just that it will now still be light when we leave work, but also that spring is on the horizon which means more time for adventures. I’ve been thinking about the many places to see art in Scotland that I still haven’t been to, and I’ve made a list.

These are the top places that have been on my radar, but that I’ve never been to, even though I’m now coming up to six years of living in Scotland. Ten places equals one per month from March to December. I hope I can manage it. Quick plea: it is genuinely embarrassing to admit I haven’t yet visited some of these places, so please don’t judge me too harshly!

Little Sparta, Lanark

I’ve been saying I wanted to go hear for YEARS and for some reason, have never managed it. This is the garden of poet, writer and artist Ian Hamilton Finlay (1925-2008). The garden in its entirety is the artwork here, dotted with metal, wood and stone sculptures created by Finlay, sometimes in collaboration with other artists. The site is only open June to September, when the trees and plants are in full leaf.

Mount Stuart House, Bute

A few of the places on this list I’ve attempted to visit before, but never made it. That’s the case with Mount Stuart House. My partner and I made the journey to Bute via the train to Weymss Bay (almost worth it for beautiful station itself) and we made it as far as the gate to Mount Stewart, only to find it was closed. We wandered around the grounds a bit, possibly illegally. A reminder to always check the website and not just Google Maps. 

Specifically this year I want to see the new immersive exhibition by Alberta Whittle (an artist whose work I love and have written about here and here). The exhibition will draw from the history and landscapes of Mount Stuart House, Bute and the Clyde, to explore ancestral roots, empire and routes of power. It’s sure to be a powerful show. The house opens on 29th March 2024 and the exhibition runs from 1 June until August 2024.

Weymss Bay station

The Burrell Collection, Glasgow

I first heard about the Burrell Collection when I was working at the National Gallery, and we held an exhibition of some of the most beautiful and delicate Degas pastel drawings I have ever seen. The Burrell reopened in 2022 and has since been celebrated and praised everywhere: it won the Art Fund Museum of the year last year. Alongside there Degas pastels, there’s one of the most significant holdings of Chinese art in the UK, stained glass, tapestries paintings… the list goes on and I am definitely going to need more than one visit.

Degree Shows: Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design and Glasgow School of Art

I am a huge fan of attending art school degree shows and seeing what themes are being explored by emerging artists. Scotland is home to some of the best art schools and some really talented people embracing creativity in new ways. Although I always attend the ECA degree show, I have never been to Dundee’s Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design or (and I’m afraid to admit this because I have no excuse other than being disorganised), Glasgow School of Art. I will be rectifying that this year. Shows normally happen around May-June and as soon as dates are announced, I’ll be planning my trip.

Cample Line Gallery, Nithsdale

People love Cample Line gallery. It’s quite a young gallery, having only been established in 2016, but I get the feeling they punch above their weight in terms of shows and programming. From its rural location, around 15 miles north of Dumfries, they host a year-round programme of exhibitions, screenings, talks, walks, workshops and events, exploring the work of contemporary artists, filmmakers and writers. Their next exhibition opens on 23 March and presents the work of Scottish painter, Gabriella Boyd.

St Peter’s Seminary, Cardross

Anyone for a bit of urban exploring? Well, not really urban, because St Peter’s Seminary isn’t in an urban centre, but a couple of miles outside of Cardross on the west coast of Scotland. The concrete structure, which was constructed between 1961-66 was once hailed as an architectural masterpiece and has now completely fallen into ruin. But it still looks majestic even in this state, covered in moss, rust and graffiti. Have a look at this Guardian photo essay from 2019 and you’ll see what I mean. I don’t think visitors are really allowed, so I’ll have to pluck up some courage and combat my inner teacher’s pet for this one.

The Italian Chapel, Orkney

Here’s another entry on the ‘tried to go but was thwarted’ list. In October 2020 we had a trip scheduled to Orkney, but then 2020 happened, so we couldn’t go. This is the most ambitious and furthest away feature on my list, but one that perhaps has the most intriguing story behind it. In 1939, after the HMS Royal Oak was sank by a German submarine resulting in the loss of 834 lives, the decision was taken to transport 550 captured Italian soldiers in North Africa to Orkney, to construct naval defences in Scapa Flow. Among the prisoners was talented artist, Domenico Chiocchetti, who was placed in charge or transforming two Nissen huts into a chapel for the prisoners of war. Thus, the Italian Chapel was born. It is now one of Orkney’s most well-loved attractions, and is open year round.

Crawick Multiverse, Sanquhar

I really love Charles Jenks’ works at Jupiter Artland and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. What I didn’t realise until recently is that there is a huge site designed by Jenks called Crawick Multiverse, which transformed a former open cast coal mine into a huge artland/sculpture park. The site opened in 2015 and links the themes of space, astronomy and cosmology “with a network of paths navigating features and landforms that represent the sun, universes, galaxies, black holes and comets”. It sounds totally wild and I can’t wait to explore it once it reopens on Saturday 16th March.

Newhailes House, Edinburgh

A lot closer to home with Newhailes House, where I’ve once booked a tour of, only to completely underestimate how long it would take to cycle there from my house and miss my slot. The house is a Palladian style 18th-century villa, complete with rococo interiors, Italian marble fireplaces and a Chinese sitting room and impressive fine art collection. The house was acquired by the National Trust for Scotland in 1997, and the unique conservation approach has meant that the house is preserved just as it was when they acquired it (rather than returning it to its ‘original’ condition). That approach fascinates me and this year when I book a tour I am planning to be far more realistic about my transportation methods.

Hospitalfield, Arbroath

I love to see today’s artists breathing life and creativity into grand old houses of the past, and that’s exactly what seems to be happening at Hospitalfield in Arbroath, they have an extensive residency programme, and see the house as a place of learning and ideas. The building is a 19th century Arts & Crafts house, built on the site of a mediaeval hospital. I’m keen to seen the sculptures in the garden (including Paolozzi’s Rio which is on loan from the Huntarian in Glasgow until 2027) and especially to explore the inside of the house via one of their tours, which restart in April.

Looking back at this list, I feel like I’ve given myself a lot to do! Scotland is such a beautiful and rich place to see varied art, architecture, sculpture and landscapes. I’ve had a few failed attempts in the past, because sometimes life gets in the way, but I hope to see as much of this as possible and encounter more art as the light and energy creeps back after a winter of hibernation.

I’d love to hear all the places you’re planning on visiting for the first time this year, wherever you are, so leave a comment or give me a shout on Instagram!